Restaurant Review: Elate

Built in 1926, the Hotel Wacker, a holdout from less trendy times in Chicago's River North district, is gone.  In its place stands the Hotel Felix, bearing no resemblance to the shabby old apartment hotel, outside which transient folk would drink from bottles in brown paper bags.  Now, urbanites sip cocktails on the patio of Elate, the eight-month old restaurant in the Hotel Felix, which sports a modern, minimalist cool from its unadorned floors and tables to its high, exposed-ductwork ceiling.

Though separately owned, Elate shares some of the LEED-certified ethos of the boutique hotel, from its use of reclaimed materials, to its large selection of "biodynamic, organic, or sustainably produced" wines.  The menu declares that it promotes "local and organic products whenever possible," but also features Jidori chicken (California), Meyer beef (Colorado) and Rushing Waters trout (Wisconsin).  Explains Executive Chef Randal Jacobs, it’s about finding the best quality and flavor.  Premium products like these "distinguishes the restaurant" to industry insiders and self-educated foodies alike.

A gracious, gently-spoken host, Chef Jacobs likes to "let the good qualities of food speak for themselves."  They were eloquent in a four-course tasting, starting with an amuse bouche of a baguette slice with tomatoes and rosemary concassé, draped with a silky shaving of Serrano ham and topped with arugula.  The love of fresh herbs, the playful variations on classic pairings and the careful balance between acidity and richness echoed through the courses ahead.  

The citrus gazpacho smelled of roasted tomatillos with a spritz of grapefruit and looked like a minced fruit salad.  Indeed, bits of fruit were balanced against avocado, peppers and onions, with cucumbers and toasted bread adding crunch.  It is a joyous riot of sweet, sour, savory and spice: springtime in a bowl.

Serious earthy aromas heralded the second course.  A lone slice of pink grapefruit was no match against the nutty richness of meaty French Horn mushrooms and brussel sprouts, the outer leaves fried crisp.  A delicately herbed hollandaise softened the dish, a hearty contrast to the previous course.

Elate's barbecued pork belly is pure indulgence.  Typically a 50/50 fat-to-meat ratio, Chef Jacobs procures a Dutch product closer to 85/15.  This he brines, applies a Kansas City spice rub, slow cooks, brushes with barbecue sauce, and chars.  The resulting slab of piggy custard is sweet, creamy and decadent.  Only the assertive tartness and crunch of the accompanying sauerkraut in cider vinegar and Granny Smith apple slices cut through the glorious fat.

I love cilantro, but never thought to use it in dessert.  Chef Jacobs does exactly that in his Lime Curd Crisp, layering lime cream, toasted phyllo, raspberries macerated with cilantro, and a dollop of torched coconut meringue.  The sweet and sour, creamy and crispy confection has a lovely herbal freshness unlike any dessert I've ever tasted.

In a neighborhood already replete with dining options, Elate’s basic focus on quality ingredients in balanced compositions make it a noteworthy addition, one that I hope remains a fixture on Clark and Huron for years to come.

Elate at the Hotel Felix

111 W. Huron Street

Chicago IL 60654

(312) 202-9900

elatechicago.com