Sunday, December 13, 2009

Travel Tweets: Ngorongoro Crater

During our travels, I found Twitter to be an excellent tool to document the journey as it happened.  Even in places where I had limited internet access, I typically had a phone signal, which was enough to record a 140-character thought for my family and friends to see.  (Previous: Dar Es Salaam Tweets)

Here are the Tweets from the third phase of our Tanzania trip: safari in the Ngorongoro Crater national park and wildlife preserve.  Times are in U.S. Central. (See all the pictures on my Picasa album.)

Driving from Arusha to Ngorongoro, seeing lavender-flowered Jaracanda trees, arabica coffee plantations, giant aloes, cattle and goats.
6:48 AM Oct 31st from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

Just saw camels grazing with donkeys on the wide, arid grasslands. Patches of green along the road where the rains run off.
6:55 AM Oct 31st from txt

On the Arusha-Ngorongoro road, the horizon is nothing but mountains and towering fluffy cumulonimbus. Acacia and sere grasslands until then.
7:10 AM Oct 31st from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

Driving through northern Tanzania, I'm convinced the Masai inspired the Aiel and their Three-Fold Land. #WoT
7:30 AM Oct 31st from txt

More sights along the Arusha-Ngorongoro road: big termite mounds like ruined pillars and tornado-like dust devils.
7:54 AM Oct 31st   from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

That's one HUGE dust storm heading our way...
7:59 AM Oct 31st from tx

Baboons! Hanging around and sauntering across the road like they own the place. And I'm not gonna argue with them.
8:13 AM Oct 31st from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

The countryside is painted in vivid green grass & leaves, yellow brush, red & lavender flowers, rust soil, powder-blue sky and white clouds.
8:41 AM Oct 31st from txt

First view of Ngorongoro Crater from the rim is breathtaking. A vast preserve 600m below of plains. & lakes, animal herds visible as specks.
9:45 AM Oct 31st from txt





From Ngorongoro National Park

The Sopa Lodge at the rim of Ngorongoro Crater can be described in one word: paradise. Words, even pictures fail to capture this beauty.
10:21 AM Oct 31st from txt





From Ngorongoro National Park

Ngorongoro Crater: buffalo LIONS hyenas vultures jackals buzzards warthogs ostrich wildabeest zebra gazelle egrets ELEPHANTS HIPPOS!
2:23 AM Nov 1st from txt


Ngorongoro National Park

There are 26 black rhinos left in Ngorongoro crater. I'm looking at one of them through binoculars.
2:38 AM Nov 1st from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

Six! Six beautiful black rhinos! Note "white rhinos" are the same color as black rhinos. It's a mispronunciation of "wide (lipped) rhino."
4:37 AM Nov 1st from txt

The floor of Ngorongoro Crater has more animal poop per square meter than anyplace I've ever seen. And not just little poop either.
5:28 AM Nov 1st from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

The Masai may be a rustic, traditional folk, but they're hard, aggressive bargainers when it comes to their handicrafts.
7:17 AM Nov 1st from txt



From Ngorongoro National Park

See the Ngorongoro Crater once in life. Nearly untouched by man, it's a view and perspective into a vast, thriving world of primal beauty.
8:05 AM Nov 1st from txt

I was uncomfortable when the Masai came out and danced for us, to "welcome important ambassadors." At least we brought crayons for the kids.
8:09 AM Nov 1st from txt



From Ngorongoro National Park

Relaxing last evening at Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge in suite's solarium, looking down lush slopes, sere grasslands & the mountainous crater rim.
8:13 AM Nov 1st from txt



From Ngorongoro National Park

Safari essentials: a camera with at least 20X optical zoom, 16GB memory, bandana/dust guard, bug repellant.
9:09 AM Nov 1st from txt

On safari nature isn't enclosed; you are. You venture into territory where the animals don't care about you, they're busy doing their thing.
9:14 AM Nov 1st from txt

Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge rooms have no TVs, which is helpful when trying to get a full night's sleep before an early safari.
8:40 PM Nov 1st from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

The morning mists over the Ngorongoro rim are like breakfasting in a cloud. Next stop: Olduvai Gorge.
10:12 PM Nov 1st from txt


From Ngorongoro National Park

From Ngorongoro, we set out to the Serengeti wildlife preserve, stopping at Olduvai Gorge on the way.  (Go to the Serengeti and Tarangire Tweets)

Monday, December 7, 2009

Travel Tweets: Dar Es Salaam

During our travels, I found Twitter to be an excellent tool to document the journey as it happened.  Even in places where I had limited internet access, I typically had a phone signal, which was enough to record a 140-character thought for my family and friends to see.

Here are the Tweets from the second leg of our Tanzania trip: a visit to Dar Es Salaam, where my wife was born and her father grew up.  This trip was their first return in 26 years.  Times are in U.S. Central. (See all the pictures on my Picasa album.)

Non-disembarking stop in Nairobi. Come to understand better the phrase "unwashed masses."
11:42 AM Oct 28th from txt

50 more minutes to Dar Es Salaam, and into what I've overheard is a spectacularly slow immigration. Fingers crossed it ain't so.
11:53 AM Oct 28th from txt

Landed in Dar Es Salaam! Air is humid, smells of roasting corn.
1:22 PM Oct 28th from txt

Just got double-charged for entry visa. Welcome to Africa!
1:40 PM Oct 28th from txt
We later learned that we were not, in fact, overcharged.  The cost of an American entry visa had gone up.  Counter to our jaded expectations, we found the Tanzanian people to be among the most honest and welcoming we'd ever encountered.

Dar Es Salaam at night looks like India: industrial concrete buildings, roadside chai, billboards for hi-tech products.
12:24 AM Oct 29th from mobile web

From Dar Es Salaam

Spotty cell coverage in Tanzania means fewer Tweets. And perhaps a more authentic experience.
12:27 AM Oct 29th from mobile web

Using bottled water for drinking, brushing teeth & face washing while abroad is an excellent lesson in water conservation.
12:57 AM Oct 29th from mobile web

Small wonder Indians once flocked to Dar Es Salaam: it looks and feels just like India, with less visible abject poverty.
5:17 AM Oct 29th from mobile web

On a nostalgia tour with my father-in-law in Tanzania, seeing friends of 40 years ago, the hospital where Bela was born.
7:33 AM Oct 29th from mobile web




From Dar Es Salaam

The Indian Ocean sparkles green and deep azure in the powerful African sun.
7:35 AM Oct 29th from mobile web

From Dar Es Salaam

Under the broiling African sun, amidst primally vivid color and sea-smells, he rued what could've been.
10:58 AM Oct 29th from mobile web

From Dar Es Salaam

The Tanzanian people seem relaxed, friendly and courteous. I found myself smiling and nodding at passers-by; so unlike Chicago.
11:07 AM Oct 29th from mobile web

Amazing Indian dining at Garden Bistro in Dar Es Salaam: in large part because of the gorgeous outdoor cabanas under the stars.4:03 PM Oct 29th from mobile web

From Dar Es Salaam

In Tanzania, non-GM, organic, farm/sea-to-table isn't fancy dining; it's the default, and delicious.
10:48 PM Oct 29th from mobile web

Mysteriously, magically, international roaming sprung back to life for me in Tanzania. Let's see for how long...
11:47 PM Oct 29th from txt

The poverty I've seen in DarEsSalaam is stark, but somehow not wretched, despite the visible disparity. I wonder what I'm not seeing.12:53 AM Oct 30th from txt

"K.T." -- allegedly the best hole-in-the-wall kebab joint in DarEsSalaam. Kebabs acquired for picnic on Bongoyo Island. 
2:56 AM Oct 30th   from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Around $77 for 3 of us to take a small boat to Bongoyo Island to sit on the beach for 2 hours? No thanks - we'll be in Zanzibar in 4 days.3:19 AM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

University of Tanzania's campus is a beautiful arid park of hills, acacia and dry brush. That the students walk in this heat humbles me.
4:17 AM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Enjoyed our K.T. Kebabs on a hill overlooking Dar Es Salaam. Great! Balls of lamb, onion & spices crispy on outside, tender on inside.
4:20 AM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Taking a ferry across Kigmboni Bay for no better reason than it'd be cool to take a ferry across the bay.
4:59 AM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Aha. Kigmboni across the bay -- that's where the really poor people live. And it's a site of some spectacular white-sand beaches.
5:41 AM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Sitting in a beach cabana across the bay from DarEsSalaam enjoying a beer with Bela and her dad, listening to the waves of the Indian Ocean.
5:50 AM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Bela, watching men at the beach: "These Tanzanian men are IN SHAPE." Me: "Well, when you grow up in a country without Twinkies..."
5:58 AM Oct 30th from txt

We're at the Patel Brotherhood club. Everyone's speaking Gujarati. I smile and nod.
11:25 AM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Bela: "You know you're in a Gujarati restaurant when they give your table only one menu. And then give it to the other table after."
11:45 AM Oct 30th from txt

Bela looked into an empty concrete room and saw second-hand memories of her first 10 months take new shape.
3:24 PM Oct 30th from txt

From Dar Es Salaam

Two-hour flight from DarEsSalaam to Arusha in a tiny single-engine plane! This should be fun...
11:58 PM Oct 30th from txt


From Dar Es Salaam


Thirteen passengers fit in this plane. One as a co-pilot.
1:20 AM Oct 31st from txt

From Ngorongoro National Park

Flying from DarEsSalaam to Arusha via Zanzibar in a little propeller plane affords the most amazing views! Shutter-finger tired.
1:54 AM Oct 31st from txt

From Ngorongoro National Park

Weather in Arusha is too much for our little plane. Stopped in Kilimanjaro waiting for weather to clear or a bus.
3:53 AM Oct 31st from txt

From Ngorongoro National Park

Made it to Arusha! Having lunch at a posh little lodge. Carrots and potatoes actually have a distinct -- and good -- taste.
5:49 AM Oct 31st from txt

On our arrival in Arusha, we immediately hit the road, bound for the Ngorongoro Crater wildlife preserve.  (Go to the Ngorongoro Tweets)

Travel Tweets: The Zurich Layover

During our travels, I found Twitter to be an excellent tool to document the journey as it happened.  Even in places where I had limited internet access, I typically had a phone signal, which was enough to record a 140-character thought for my family and friends to see.  (Previous: Zurich Layover Tweets)

Here are the Tweets from the first leg of our Tanzania trip: our one-day layover in Zurich.  Times are in U.S. Central. (See all the photographs on my Picasa album.)

Bah. 8 kg carry-on limit on SwissAir just nuked our "all-carry-ons" plan. Nothing like last-minute reshuffling to kick off a journey.
5:55 PM Oct 26th from txt

http://twitpic.com/n2v07 - SwissAir #9 to Zurich
6:23 PM Oct 26th from TwitPic


From Zurich

http://twitpic.com/n38gr - Cramped quarters in SwissAir Economy class
7:49 PM Oct 26th from TwitPic


From Zurich


USB port on plane seat means my phone has power! Yay!
8:05 PM Oct 26th from txt

Landed in Zurich. Countryside looks so lovely, I may yodel. Keeping an eye out for Swiss Miss.
4:34 AM Oct 27th from txt

http://twitpic.com/n4rce - Hotel Continental, Zurich: NOT the way to beat jetlag
6:47 AM Oct 27th from TwitPic


From Zurich

Probably shouldn't have napped so long at the hotel, but now an evening circuit of Zurich Old Town awaits.
10:11 AM Oct 27th from txt


From Zurich

http://twitpic.com/n5jr4 - Dusk over Zurich
11:35 AM Oct 27th from TwitPic


From Zurich

http://twitpic.com/n5jvb - Dusk over Zurich 2
11:36 AM Oct 27th from TwitPic


From Zurich

Had an Italian meal in Zurich at La Pasta with perfectly al dente pasta and a comped (?) bottle of Amarone.
1:25 PM Oct 27th from txt


From Zurich

Nope, it wasn't comped, but it was thoroughly enjoyed.


From Zurich

Bela's drunk on Amarone and ready to crash. We have a 5:30am wake-up call. But I'm not done with Zurich. Wolf Bierhalle, I'm coming!
2:18 PM Oct 27th from txt

Found a fondue place: Swiss Chuchi. Trying to decipher wine list in German.
3:03 PM Oct 27th from txt

Ordered a glass of Staatschreiner Wein Cuvee Prestige from Zurich. Pinot noir, Muscat & Gewurztraminer.
3:09 PM Oct 27th from txt

The wine: dry muscat aromatics, ruby-tinged gold color, perfumey Gewurtz in mouth.
3:19 PM Oct 27th from txt

http://twitpic.com/n6f65 - 2nd Dinner at Swiss Chuchi, Zurich
3:23 PM Oct 27th from TwitPic


From Zurich

Enjoyed an evening in Zurich; now preparing for 10 hours on the plane to Dar Es Salaam. P.S. Swiss coffee is surprisingly strong.
1:52 AM Oct 28th from txt

Swiss Miss appeared to me as a hologram in the Zurich airport. She kissed the window and vanished, beautiful and ephemeral as a dream.

2:49 AM Oct 28th   from txt



And then we were off, bound for Nairobi, Kenya, and then Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania.  (Go to the Dar Es Salaam Tweets)